Tuesday, November 3, 2009

Choosing Proper Goldfish Tanks

Choosing Proper Goldfish Tanks

By Sara Le


Determining what proper goldfish tanks should be like is every bit as important as determining what proper tropical fish tanks should be like. We often think of tropical fish as requiring special care, and that's true. It's also true that goldfish, if they are to remain healthy and live out their normal life spans, require their own special care.

Goldfish are often thought of as being short-lived fish. That is simply not true, as a goldfish typically has a life span in excess of 10 years. What is true is that when placed in something other than a proper tank, like a goldfish bowl, a goldfish may indeed be short lived. A goldfish in a small bowl is unlikely to live for 10 years. Blame it on the small bowl, or the goldfish's owner if you will. For one thing, because of its shape, the goldfish bowl does not provide a large water surface area, necessary in keeping the oxygen content in the water at a required level. In addition, a single goldfish requires quite a bit of water, about 20 gallons to be exact. You won't find many 20-gallon goldfish bowls on the market and, if you have two goldfish, you'd better be looking at a 30-gallon bowl. An aquarium style container is definitely what you need, unless of course you are going to keep the fish in an outdoor pond.

Even inexpensive common goldfish can be extremely attractive to look at, and deserve to be placed in an environment where they will thrive. Their availability and low cost should not diminish from their value as pets, and as ornamental fish. Some types, especially the more common types, can become quite large over time, require plenty of room to roam, plus they will create quite a bit of waste. A 20 gallon tank for one fish is really the absolute minimum size that should be considered. Get a 55 gallon tank and 3 or 4 goldfish, and you can then sit back and enjoy watching them.

Of course goldfish tanks holding only goldfish and water aren't much to look at, and aren't good for the goldfish either. Since the goldfish is a cold water fish, you don't usually need to worry about installing a water heater. You do need to install an air pump to provide oxygen, and a filter to keep the water clean enough for the fish. You should also consider plenty of plant life, not only for appearance, and as a secondary though minor source of fish food, but also because plants can also assist in the filtering process. Goldfish are usually very fond of eating plants however, so plan on having to replace plants fairly often.

To keep the water at a sufficient quality you'll want to be changing some out on a weekly basis. Note the use of the word "some". You don't need to completely empty and refill goldfish tanks every week. For one thing, that's not particularly good for the fish. What you want to be doing is removing as much waste as you can with each water change, and taking out and replacing only about a quarter of the water volume each time. One problem that can happen if you change all the water out (besides having to remove the fish in the process), is that significant differences in temperature between the old water and the new water can be extremely stressful to the goldfish. By taking out and replacing only a portion of the water at one time, temperature changes are minimized.

When you do settle upon a tank that is large enough, it is obviously going to be very heavy. Twenty-gallon tanks when filled, will contain 160 pounds of water. Add that to the weight of the empty tank, and you can see the need to have a very sturdy stand or piece of furniture to keep the tank on. The location of the tank is of importance as well. Keep the tank away from heat sources. Goldfish are not tropical fish. And keep the tank out of direct sunlight. Indirect light is best. Don't keep the tank and fish in a darkened room for long, the goldfish will start to lose their characteristic colors! A lighted tank where the light is on no more than 8 to 10 hours a day is about right. Fluorescent lights are often a good choice for hood or canopy lighting.

Goldfish are not simple-minded as some would believe, but are actually somewhat intelligent, and have a sense of curiosity. You can put plenty of things in goldfish tanks that the fish can swim through, around, or under, adding a little variety to their routine. Gravel on the bottom is almost a must, plus the fact that the fish seem to enjoy nosing around in the gravel. Just avoid things which may have sharp edges which could cause injuries to the fish.

While it may seem to be quite a huge enterprise for a few fish, large goldfish tanks are the price that must be paid if you plan on having healthy fish for a number of years.


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Ways to Avoid Goldfish Disease

Ways to Avoid Goldfish Disease

By Sara Le




In giving your pets proper care and attention, you should not normally experience problems with goldfish disease. With a possible exception of some of the more exotic types, the goldfish is a pretty hardy little fellow, and can live a long life whether kept inside, outside, or a little of each. When hearing the word goldfish, we sometimes envision a pretty little fish swimming serenely round and round in a small bowl. While a goldfish can live in such an environment, it is not the best one for it, if for no other reason than one must take special care to keep the water fresh and clean at all times.



A poor environment is easily the greatest cause behind goldfish disease. Breeding and genetics can be a factor of course, and you can always inadvertently purchase a diseased fish, but as a goldfish owner you have a primary responsibility to keep it disease free or, when possible, treat the fish should a disease arise.



Sometimes the symptoms of goldfish disease can be quite obvious. One of the more common symptoms is when the fish begins to swim in an abnormal fashion. Gasping at the surface, or hugging the bottom (most goldfish are normally not bottom feeders) are other common signs. Goldfish can also suffer from skin problems, and when this occurs they will often spend a significant amount of time scratching against objects in the aquarium, trying to get some relief. Many conditions such as fin rot or fungus are treatable unless they spread to the gills, in which case the situation generally becomes fatal.



The two most common types of disease you're apt to encounter are worms and bacterial infections. Worms generally will not be a concern unless introduced into an aquarium with live food, and are much more apt to become an issue in an outdoor pond. If you have indoor fish and feed them non-living fish food (flakes), worms are very unlikely to ever become an issue.



The other more common type of goldfish disease is bacterial infection, which can take on many forms. Fin or tail rot is perhaps the most common, which will happen if a fin or tail is damaged, and the water is allowed to become dirty. Ulcers, present on the fish's body are another symptom of a bacterial infection. Dirty water, especially water where an accumulation of nitrites or ammonia has become too great, probably accounts for the vast majority, if not all, bacterial infections, and rather than worry about treatment, the best approach is to take the simple preventive measure of keeping the goldfish's environment clean. Antibiotics are available to treat both fin and tail rot, and must be used as the problem will not clear up on its own.



Sometimes fungus can become a problem. Fungus is generally a secondary situation, arising when, because of injury or bacterial infection, there is an open sore on the fish. The presence of fungus is also a treatable problem. There are other kinds of goldfish disease, some of which are of uncertain origin. Goldfish can suffer from lice, constipation, scale loss, air bladder problems, and even tuberculosis. Rather than worry about each and every possible goldfish disease, it's best to keep an eye on your fish and be on the lookout for abnormalities. If you have a number of fish, and one exhibits unusual behavior, it is of course a good idea to quarantine that fish. The condition may or may not be contagious but you'll not want to take chances.



Keep the environment clean, don't overfeed, and be on the lookout for injuries if you have many fish, and the chances of goldfish disease are slim indeed, and your fish should live a normal life span of 10 years or more.




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Tips on Glofish Care and Spawning

Tips on Glofish Care and Spawning


By Stephen J Broy


Glofish do not exist in nature. They were created in a laboratory. Glofish are genetically modified zebra danios or Brachydanio reri. Geneticists in Singapore added the fluorescent gene from sea coral to zebra danio eggs. The result was the glofish. Aside from their genetically altered neon color palette they are identical to zebra danios.

These fish are vibrant under any circumstances. But they fluoresce or light up when they encounter environmental toxins. They were first created to do precisely that, detect environmental toxins. They were made available for sale to the general public in 2003.

Environmentalists have expressed concern about what might happen if these genetically altered fish made their way into natural rivers and streams. The creators of glofish state emphatically that these genetically engineered fish are not an ecological threat. Glofish, like regular zebra danios, can only survive in tropical waters. They need a water temperature between 64-74 °F. In the six years since their release for sale to the general public, they have not seemed to pose any ecological threat. While the sale of a genetically altered fish simply because they look prettier than their "natural" counterparts may be ethically questionable, they are beautiful fish.

So far Glofish have proven to be every bit as hardy as regular zebra danios. There is, after all, only a single gene that differentiates the two.

Glofish come in a variety of brilliant rainbow colors. They can be purchased for around $6 or $7.

Zebra danios

The zebra danios are a member of the Cyprinidae family. They are native to eastern India. They are hardy and active fish with peaceful temperaments. They make good additions to community tanks provided they are housed with fish of similar temperament.

Zebra danios have a five year life span and will grow to length of about two inches. They thrive in slightly acidic to neutral water (pH 6.5-7.0) and prefer a rather chilly water temperature of 64-74 degrees Fahrenheit. They can, however, adapt to the warmer climate needed for most other tropical fish. They are surface dwelling fish that favor moving water. Zebra danios are shoaling fish. It is not advisable to purchase a single fish for your aquarium. Nature intended them to live in a community.


Zebras are omnivores that can survive just fine on a diet of tropical fish flakes. Both sexes have to pairs of barbels on either side of their mouth.

In their genetically unaltered state it is easy to tell the males form the females. Males have blue and gold stripes. Females have blue and silver stripes. The female tends to be larger and fuller bodied than the male. This would be the distinguishing factor in the genetically altered varieties.


Breeding Frankenfish


Zebra danios are some of the easiest fish to breed in captivity. Spawning can be triggered by raising the water temperature up a few degrees near dawn. This will trick the fish into believing it is mating season. When spawning occurs 3-500 eggs will be scattered across the breeding tank floor. Remove the adults to prevent them from eating the eggs.


The fry will hatch in 2 days. They can be fed liquid fry food or small amounts of powdered eggs. In a week or two they will be large enough to eat brine shrimp or finely crushed tropical fish flakes.


This article is brought to you courtesy of Exotic-Aquariums.com. Helping you have healthier and happier fish is our business. Exotic-Aquariums.com does not sale fish tanks. We sale complete aquariums. We offer unique alternatives to the traditional rectangle fish tank; featuring desktop, wall mount and free standing models. Get the Look of a Custom Aquarium Without the Custom Price Tag!


If you found this article interesting and would like to learn more check out our Online Fish Buying Guide.


Stephen J. Broy


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Saturday, June 27, 2009

Giving Your Dog a Home Spa Treatment

Source: Nextarticles.com

Author: AmyNutt

Taking your pet to the spa can be very expensive and time consuming, but you don`t have to pay big bucks to get your dog into a special spa. In fact, you can do your own spa treatment right at home. It`s a great way to bond with your dog and since most dogs prefer to hang out with their own humans, this is something that your dog is bound to enjoy.

What You'll Need

There are a few essentials that you`ll need in order to give your canine friend a good experience. Items such as a comb or brush, dog shampoo and towels are all a very necessary part of bathing your pet. However, these are just the basics. To make the at home spa treatment something different from a normal bath, here are a few items that will make the whole experience better.

- Lavender scented conditioner. Make sure it`s formulated for dogs and don`t try using human conditioner which can burn sensitive skin. - Music. Most pets really enjoy music and this can have a calming effect on both of you. - Detangler spray. This is very helpful if your dog has long hair that tends to mat in the bath. - Removable shower head. This allows you to easily rinse your dog without having to dump buckets of water on him. - Knee pads. These will keep your knees from getting sore as you kneel by the tub. -Non-slip bath mat. To prevent slipping and sliding, your pet can stand on the bath mat.

These extras will help your dog truly enjoy his spa treatment and it will make things easier on you, as well.

Tips for a Successful Spa Session

- Start with a massage. Get your dog nice and relaxed by stroking him and then lightly massaging his back and sides. Start lightly and then increase the pressure to where your dog seems happy. Watch for the sensitive area where the hips join the body, this can be rather ticklish. - Keep treats handy. This is a pampering experience, so be sure to have some of your dog`s favorite treats on hand. Throughout the session, compliment him on his great behavior and give him a treat. - Use conditioner to add shine. One of the great things about a dog spa treatment is that your pet`s coat is bright and shiny afterwards. The best way to get this professional look is with a good conditioner and then spritz a high shine spray over his fur as you brush him out. - Don`t use a blow dryer. While it may seem faster, the heat can be too much for the sensitive skin of your pet. It`s best to simply dry your dog with a big fluffy towel instead. - Brush first. This will ensure that the extra hair will end up in the brush or mitt, rather than your tub drain. Since most dogs tend to shed, even if you've done a thorough brushing, it can be useful to get a drain trap. This is simply a small bowl made of metal screening that sits in the drain, catching anything that threatens to go down. You can just lift it out and clean it later, without having to deal with clogged drains.

Giving your pet a home dog spa treatment can be a wonderful way to spend some quality time together. The end result is pretty nice, too. You`ll have a sweet smelling dog who will be thrilled that you took the time to spend with him. Most animals are also calmer after a soothing treatment that includes aromatherapy (the lavender conditioner or spray) and music, along with a massage.

Monday, June 22, 2009

Dog Adoption: The Facts

When considering the birth rates among animals, it's not hard to understand why animal shelters are always filled with animals waiting to be adopted. Shockingly, it has been calculated that over a seven year period, one female cat and her offspring will produce approximately 400,000 kittens.

Likewise, one female dog and her offspring will produce 65,000 puppies during a six year period. Since there are more animals looking for homes than there are people who want to adopt them, some 6.5 million animals are put down each year.

Given the statistics cited above, adopting an animal can be a kind and loving thing to do. However, before making the final decision to adopt, there are a number of things to consider.

Many of the animals awaiting adoption in shelters have had very rough beginnings. Some were abused, some abandoned and some were "turned in" because the owners didn't have time for them. Many were left alone for long periods and some were never properly potty trained. In short, when adopting an animal you must be prepared to work with them.

Many adopted dogs will come to the new surroundings filled with fears based upon earlier mistreatment or the harsh rules of their previous owners. Some dogs will be reluctant to go from one room to another, will shy away when corrected and hide upon hearing a loud noise. New owners must be patient with them and speak to them softly and affectionately. Dogs are not stupid and they will gradually come to understand their new environment and show their appreciation for your loving care.

Adopted dogs
are subject to all of the behavioral problems commonly associated to dogs in general. These would include digging, jumping up on people, jumping fences, barking and nipping. There are proven solutions to all of these "offenses." If your dog is prone to digging, and always digs in one area, there are a number of effective repellent sprays that work well. If he digs under your fence, a little buried chicken wire works wonders in breaking that habit. Spray bottles filled with water should be kept at hand to break a dog from jumping up and to combat incessant barking.

Visiting an animal shelter can be an emotional experience for an animal lover. It's difficult to see all the animals in their pens and not want to take them all home. Such feelings are understandable and commendable; however, just be sure that prior to adoption you consider all of the ramifications. And remember, your best friend is waiting for you at your local animal shelter.

Friday, June 19, 2009

Cat Teeth Care Tips

Source:Articleteller.com


No matter the breed, cats can get a lot of teeth and gums problems. These sort of diseases are not harmless or isolated at all, eventually leading to serious systemic problems for your cat. The figures have shown that over 70% of all cats older than two years are suffering from some form of dental disease.

There are two main methods of helping your cats’ teeth and gums stay healthy. First of all, cats must have a dental cleaning, under anesthesia, every six months. But the most important thing is home care, thus leading to less frequent veterinary cleanings, meaning less discomfort for the cat.

Veterinary dental care includes annual examining of the cats’ teeth and gums, in order to discover any illness that can occur. Should the cat have bad breath, reddened gums, yellowish-brown tartar on teeth, this means it has gingivitis. When severe, this illness will make cats of any breed refuse eating. Most older cats have a dental problem called feline odontoclastic resorptive lesions, for short FORL. So pay attention to signs like excessive salivation, bleeding from the mouth and reluctance to chew food! The veterinary dental care aims to be both preventive and therapeutic and goes hand in hand with the home dental care.

When it comes to home dental care for any cat breed, you should start by training cat to accept daily brushing or wiping of the teeth. The easiest way to do that is by starting the training while the cat is very small. With the aid of a cats specially made toothbrush, apply the bristles to the teeth at a 45-degree angle to the gums, reaching both the tooth surface and the area just beneath the gum margin. The toothpaste for humans is not good for cats, as it can be harmful if swallowed. There are many types of toothpaste for all cat breeds, so always use them, as they are flavored appropriately for your cat and is harmless if swallowed. In order to remove plaque, pet toothpastes contain enzymes and, most importantly, do not require rinsing. Sometimes you can use nothing and simply allow the mechanical action of brushing to remove the plaque. The motions must be circular, paying attention so that you get the bristles under the gum lines. The main idea is to keep in mind the fact that dental home care does not have the goal of removing plaque, but preventing it form accumulating and turning into calculus.

So, try making it pleasant to your cat, and maybe it will eventually even get to enjoying teeth brushing. It is the only way of having a healthy cat from the teeth’ point of view at least!

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Get rid of puppies Behavior Problem

Source: article99



The first thing you should understand about alleged “behavior problems” is that they are rarely a problem for the dog. Chances are pretty good that he enjoys digging up your garden, tilting over the trash, jumping on you, chasing any cat or un-stuffing the couch.


The first thing you should understand about alleged “behavior problems” is that they are rarely a problem for the dog. Chances are pretty good that he enjoys digging up your garden, tilting over the trash, jumping on you, chasing any cat or un-stuffing the couch. Problem correction, like command training, has an expected sequence of steps you must follow to be successful: Prevent Unwanted Practice Before you could attempt to any changes make sure that you are not creating another problem. If you don’t give the dog what he requires, a proper diet, plenty of exercise and daily dealings or if you give him more than what he can actually handle, crate him for long hours, constantly excite him or may be frighten him frequently, he would not be able to give you his best.

Now prevent the accidents until you and your dog are actually prepared. Crating, closing doors, moving the cat box or bowl, or may be keeping him on lead with you are just a few ways to minimize mischief. When you leave, lock him safely. Teach Better Always give your dog a way to succeed, a way to earn rewards. With behavior problems, ask your self “What behavior we want?” Often “sit” is a normal option. A dog who is sitting cannot be jumping up, stealing food from the kids counter tops etc... One of the best ways to address a surplus behavior is to just spend several days working on the desired alternative until your dog would do it quickly and more reliably by clearly directing him to the desired behavior, he quickly learns how to earn approval and rewards.

Practice Behavior problems can not be willed away. It doesn’t really help to think about crating him or to think setting up a training situation. Do it. We’ve seen people resolve similar difficult canine problems for which we held out little hope of recovery. It has achieved through pure diligence and pure commitment. Not every problem has a solution, but most they do and that solution is 100% dependent on you. Take the time and create a minor miracle.